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Auris Lothol

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    Hello lovelies,

    my video tutorial of the half-round mask is finally done and on youtube. Please watch and subscribe! 


    There are a lot of different ways of how people sew the mask and that was the method that worked out best for me. I hope you like it and share your result if you sew one!

    Download the mask pattern from my dropbox.

    Stay safe and healthy everyone!

    All the best,


    Auris Lothol

    Continue Reading


     

    Hello lovelies, 

    I wanted to make a nice cap after the Regency dress I finished but it was so hard to find surviving extants and pictures in general. I dove into museums and libraries that shared their collection for free online. And for future references, I will post them here because they are brilliant. 

    Gallery of Fashion

    Published 1794-1802, probably London. 64 pages full of fashion plates.

     National Portrait gallery

    This was a rare find, it has fashion plates, portraits, etc. I searched for regency morning dress and I found a lot of fashion plates. Click here to my specific search.

    Show me

    Another British source:Games, collections, videos, stories, homework help and family days out from museums and galleries. I found a few regency fashion plates, for example this one here. 

    Regency fashion

    More fashion plates from the magazine "The gallery of fashion" (1794-1803) 

    Candice Hern

    is an author of Regency romance books and her site contains a lot of information on clothing during that era. 

    Regrom

    another site dedicated to the Regency era. I found some interesting articles about caps and clothings.

    Mimi Matthews

    this site would not be complete without this author. She is another author of Regency romance novels and her site is also dedicated to everything Regency. I found this article about Regency caps that was very interesting. Read more.

    Cap sewing 

    on there is a whole load on information on how to sew an 18th century cap. I include this on the list because most of these forms were also used during the Regency era.

    In the end I found a cap I especially liked from the Riksmuseum, located in the Netherlands. follow the link here to go there.

    small portraits of women wearing regency caps

     It was published in the magazine "Magazine of Female Fashions of London and Paris, No.31.2, London Head Dresses" around 1800. This cap especially caught my eye:

    I liked how the hair was not completely hidden underneath the cap and there was a kind of veil over the eyes.I immediately set to work and made about 5 different mock-ups before I found the pattern I liked.

    white cotton mock up of a regency cap

    white cotton mock up of a regency cap


    white cotton mock up of a regency cap
     

    Normally I only do one mock up and it fits, at least for modern or lolita clothing. But for historical clothing I always find myself doing mock-up after mock-up because it is not quite right. It stresses me because I have the feeling that I just can't do it properly. I remember also doing about 5 mock-ups of my Edwardian corset before it finally fit. But it cost me a lot of time and nerves. 

    I bought a very fine cotton fabric at my favourite fabric store for the base. I still had see-through but stiff silk for the veil. I made the mock up with cotton and tulle, but felt the tulle didn't look good enough. 

    This is the pattern I ended up with. It looks like half a croissant and only looking at it makes me kind of hungry.

    brown paper pattern on white cotton fabric

    After cutting it, I already measured it with seam allowance, the piece looked like that. 

    At the bottom I measured out dots every 0,5cm and then gathered it to 7cm.

    white cotton cut out

    White cotton fabric on a brown table

    Afterwards I did the same at the top, and gathered it to 8cm. And it went from a nice croissant to something that looks more like a cap. But see how the shape of the fabric changes completly with just one line of pulled thread? I love it!


     

    From the same fabric I cut out two strips of about 4cmx74cm and ironed them to make something like a bias tape. On the original picture the band that goes around the cap is a bit wider, I guess I could have also made a 2cm bias strip instead of a 1cm.   

    two strips of white cotton fabric on a brown table

    The strips were then pinned around the edges of the cap, sandwiching the fabric. I left the bands on the sides longer because I wanted to close it at the back of my head with that.

    I went over the whole cap with a running stitch and removed the pins. Usually I like to stick in the pins and be done with it, but I was working with real silk fabric in the next step and I did not want scratch or tear it. 

    I tried to use as little of the fabric as possible because it was so expensive. And I am very happy, that everything with the fabric worked out so well because I did not have to redo it. Hooray. 

    Below is how the pattern really looks like. I ironed it on a very low heat and did not ruin it. Plus it kind of removed the wrinkles. Horray.

    While the top is a picture of how it looked like right after I cut it out, below is how it looke like after I ironed and hemmed it.


    The next thing I did, was of course, pinning and then sewing both parts together. The project, so far, was very nice and easy, except for the 5 annoying mock-ups. At least everything else worked out.

    But I was not done yet, I added ribbons made out of lace, I have no idea if this was actually work like this? No idea and I didn't find anything else that looked like that, so please leave a comment!


    And here is the finished look.




    A video will be completed and uploaded soon. I will post it on the blog as soon as it's done. But if you are a patreon member, you will see the video 48h before anyone else. So if this interests you, you can support me there: Patreon

    All the best,


    Auris Lothol



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    Hello lovelies,

    last month I got my new dress from Miao Wu - The crimes of Grindelwald, the hufflepuff version of course. I bought it over Clobbaonline, the link is here, back in July. It was open for pre-order and I immediately took the chance. 


     

    Three months later it arrived, neatly packed with the small Hogwarts chain in a separate plastic. I ordered the L version of it, because I was very unsure with the measurements but it ended up being a bit too big. I am still unsure what to do about it but I am thinking about doing a ribbon shirring over the actual shirring. 

    The site stated the following measurements for the dress:

    Size
    Bust
    Waist
    Length(Not Including Shoulder Straps)
    S
    78-86
    66-74
    84
    M
    83-90
    71-79
    85.5
    L
    86-94
    76-84
    87

    The larger end of Bust and Waist is the max after the back shirring is stretched(not the max). It's not recommended to stretch the back shirring for more than 6cm in case of tight fitting(For your reference only).

     

    The yellow fabric is cotton and the black is velvet. The words hufflepuff and the hogwarts patch are directly machine-embroidered onto the fabric. The seams are straight and neat, and the ends of the thread were trimmed.

    yellow plaid dress with black border and the word hufflepuff

    yellow plaid dress with black border and the word hufflepuff

    yellow plaid dress with black border and the word hufflepuff


    The dress has sewn in cups, and I am not sure why. I only know this cups from dresses were you can't or shouldn't wear a bra, like a ball gown. The lining is made out of a typical black polyester fabric.  The zip is on the side and it can be difficult to close, even while flat-laying it, because of the velvet. 

    back side of a yellow plaid lolita dress with black velvet and the word hufflepuff

    back side of a yellow plaid lolita dress with black velvet

    The straps are adjustable. Therefore perfect for taller or smaller lolitas.

    back side of a yellow plaid lolita dress with the shirring and the shoulder straps

    This is the separate clip I got, I am not sure where to put it though. It is not seen to be included in the worn pictures with the model, maybe it was just a goodie.


    The dress is a bit on the warmer side, perfect for autumn walks and winter meet-ups. 

    Cost: 

    The dress was 72$ (~67,50€)

    Shipping was 16,5$ (~ 14,50€)

    So all in all less than 100€.


    All the best,

    Auris Lothol

    Continue Reading


    This entry will be updated regularly, add it to your bookmarks to check it quickly.
    Last update: 13th of Dezember


    Hello lovelies,

    it is time for my yearly fukubukuro post! 

    I just love the lucky bags and I am always so excited about what the brands come up with this year. It is just bitter (for me) that Liz Lisa didn't release Lucky bags the last two years because I was always looking forward to theirs and most of the time I also bought them. 

    So, what's fukubukuro/lucky bag/Lucky pack? It is the term for a fixed prized bag containing items that are much more worth than the price you pay for the bag. Some shops offer these bags to get rid of their old stock, others already offer clothes made specifically for that occasion.
    The bags go on pre-sale in December and are then shipped out after New year.
    Most shops reveal what is inside (if it is specifically made) beforehand and therefore one can decide if they are willing to buy the bag or not.

    This year I will not buy a lucky bag because the EU decided on new taxes. The whole chaos and extra postal fee that will ensue will be too stressful to handle for me at the moment. There is almost no information on what will happen on the 1st of January and therefore I will wait and maybe buy some summer lucky bags instead. 

    Ank rouge

    two women with a pink backdrop and matching outfits


    Price: 15.000Yen + tax
    Versions: Pink bag and black bag
    Start of sale: 1st of December
    Content: the bag, probably the jacket and the skirts/dress the girls wear. 

    Axes femme

    bags


    Price: 11.000Yen (10.000+ tax)
    Versions: 4 different bags, 2 different bags for kids
    Start of sale: 1st of December in the physical stores, 25th of November online
    Content: 
    Red Bag: Outerwear (Jacket/Coat), Dress, skirt, 2x Pullover
    Green Bag: One-piece, tunica, skirt, knit, pullover, camisole
    Lilac Bag: Outerwear, dress, skirt, knit cardigan, blouse
    Black bag: Outerwear, pullover skirt (?), skirt, blouse, hat
    Kid bags: 2x dresses, skirt, pullover


    Baby the stars shine bright and Alice and the pirates

    There will be an entry and lottery for the lucky bags. Reserve your bag here


    Honey Cinnamon

    two women dressed in honey cinnamon a japanese brand.
    Price: 1.100 (tax included)
    Version: girly (pink)and unisex (black)
    Start of sale: 1st of December in their webshop. Click here
    Content: 5 items. 

    The unisex bag contains a jacket, a sweatshirt, a big top, a backpack, and a bear accessory. 
    unisex dark clothes folded in a flat lay

    woman wearing a black honey cinnamon jacket

    grey long top from honey cinnamon

    honey cinnamon content of the lucky bag


    black jacket from honey cinnamon


    The girly bag contains 5 items: two tops, a jacket, a skirt and the bag 
    pink and girly clothes folded in a flat lay

    woman wearing a grey honey cinnamon skirt and top combo

    woman wearing a white top and a grey skirt both from honey cinnamon

    woman wearing a jacket with bear ears from honey cinnamon

    honey cinnamon lucky bag items 2021

    Innocent world

    Price: 17.000, 30.000, 50.000 or 80.000 plus taxes
    Versions: four different lucky bags, the sizes can be chosen. the 30.000-80.000Yen bags contain a dress called "Renée dress" in 5 different colour ways and the rest is random
    Start of sale: 14th of December on their homepage
    Content:  a set that includes at least a dress, top and socks
    socks

    two women wearing lolita fashion

     

    Lodispotto

    lodispotto white floral bag


    Price: 11.000 incl. Tax
    Versions: there are different colours and floral designs, but only one bag, therefore one can not choose
    Start of sale: Out now at Magaseek
    Content: 5x items: (Fur?) coat, floral skirt, original floral dress, cardigan and something knit (?).

    Swankiss

    Another year, another angel bag.
    woman wearing a huge bag from Swankiss

    Price: 16.000Yen + tax (17.600Yen)
    Versions: Only one Version
    Start of sale: Out now at Magaseek
    Content: 5x items: Outerwear , Top, One-piece, accessories, bag

    woman wearing a grey dress from the brand Swankiss
    The dress looks very toned down and plain. 

    woman wearing the blouse and dress combo
    Here is the dress and the blouse combo.

    Woman with black coat and a grey backpack
    The black coat looks cute. 
    grey round backpack with a black bow from Swankiss
    The backpack matches the dress. 

    pink bag on a white table

    And of course the angel bag. Read what it says on it, it's super funny. 

    All the best,

    Auris Lothol

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